Thunderbirl Education Center for Prospective Pipe Buyers.

This page is a starting point for the journey to buy a new pipe. My biggest gripe with this process is that there are far too many people who will take a beginner's money and sell an adequate product at an inflated price, providing no after sales support and really give little in return. This is my effort to combat the problem by educating the buyer and providing an alternative path.

Parts and Pieces

A excellent glossary of parts/terms may be found at http://www.cekron.com/glossary.htm.

In addition to the picture below, you'll want to look up combing and beading, slide, hemp stop, ringcap, bush, button mount and projecting mount.

The parts of a bagpipe

(This is taken from a really old catalog.)

Slides go over the tuning pins.

Modern chanters seldom have soles.

Types of Materials

Ferrules:

Ferrules are the metal or plastic bands that go around the female receivers on a bagpipe.  They add strength and prevent cracking when the joints are assembled.  (Note: Some brands of pipes are available without ferrules as bottom end models. DO NOT BUY PIPES WITHOUT FERRULES. They will crack or distort.)

The metal in ferrules may be nickel, brass, nickel plated brass (a.k.a. German silver!), stainless steel, silver, or gold plated silver.  Some ferrules are completely plain: others may have a simple groove or two.  Most of the solid materials (i.e., not the plated ones) can be engraved at an additional expense.  Some metal ferrules are "cast" with designs in them. 

The non-metallic ferrules have traditionally be ivory and various kinds of plastic. Alternate materials are available, including tortoise shell, minerals, Corian, bone, and walrus/whale/mammoth ivory.

Mounts:

Projecting mounts are less important for strength and can be wood of the same or contrasting colors, any of the non-metallic materials described above, silver or gold plated silver. Solid silver based projecting mounts are VERY HEAVY and can lead to discomfort in playing. There are hollow silver mounts made, but I have no data on how immune they are to dents.

Drone Materials:

African Blackwood is considered the best as it is hard (works well in the lathe), has a smooth finish (low loss of high frequencies), oily (doesn't absorb moisture easily), dense (slow moisture exchange and good resonance for tone) and is beautiful. However, African Blackwood is an endangered species.

Resale has been a major issue with non-African Blackwood pipes, in part to the use of non-African Blackwood by unskilled artisans.  The recent use of woods such as mopane, keranda, cocobolo and others by skilled artisans and the playing of these pipes by top professionals (e.g., Chris Hamilton) is making these woods a more attractive option.  One of the most stable bagpipes I've ever played was made of mopane or keranda.  I don't think it was the wood that made it better, but the wood sure didn't hurt!

Plastic is an option, but I can't recommend any of the plastic pipes made today due to playing issues.

Different Styles - Military Pipes vs. Antique Style

The outside of a bagpipe does not affect the sound.

Bagpipes generally look like you expect them to look. This is the "military" style.

In years past, the projecting mounts were much smaller and the bush may not have extended above the top of the drone.

There is a style of pipe known as a Chalice top pipe. Be aware that you may end up sticking out because yours looks different.

Combing and Beading

Most pipes are combed and beaded. These operations take time and add cost. Some budget pipes are combed, but not beaded and are called Flat Combed. Some are not combed at all.

An example of combing and beading from my MacDonald's. This was done about 200 years ago.

A non-combed, non-beaded, button mounted drone made by Kintail. This set has metal ferrules. Some do not!

Degree of Ornamentation

Wood button mount (#1) with plain metal ferrules.  Some pipes are made without ferrules (#0).

Half mounted imitation ivory projecting mounts with plain metal ferrules ( #2 or regulation or military issue)

Half mounted imitation ivory projecting mounts with plain metal ferrules and slides ( #2A). The slides are the difference between the #2 and #2A.

Full mounted imitation ivory projecting mounts and ferrules (#3) (Note the ridge on the ferrules. This is called beading.)

Full mounted imitation ivory projecting mounts and ferrules with nickel slides (#3A). The slides are the difference between the #3 and #3A.

From here on, the numbering scheme breaks down and mean different things between the different makers.

Some makers will have numbers up to 5 while others go up to 9.

From here on, the prices skyrocket because of the expense of the silver.

Half mounted imitation ivory projecting mounts with sterling silver beaded and hallmarked ferrules and slides. These slides and ferrules are not engraved.

Half mounted hand engraved silver.  For many pipers, these are considered the most attractive, practical working, everyday bagpipe.  They are usually only purchased by more advanced players.

Full mounted hand engraved silver. Heavy to carry and the most expensive - except for the gold plated silver version.

Some important questions...

What is the best value in a bagpipe? Do all bagpipes sound the same? How much does a bagpipe cost?
Do I need a water trap? How can I make a water trap? What are the different kinds of blowstick valves?
Should I bore out my blowstick? What should be in my maintenance kit? What about polishing my drone bores?
  What are the important issues in selecting a pipe case?  

Some recommended manufacturer and vendor sites...

MacLeod Highland Supplies C.E.Kron Bagpipes David Naill and Company
Dunbar Bagipes Toneczar Scott's Highland Services, Ltd.
Henderson Imports Limited The British Shop Cases: Example #1 Example #2

My recommendation for new pipes:

Be sure you get something like the following...

What

Details

Why

Issues, Downgrades, Upgrades

Drones and Stocks Combed and Beaded African Blackwood with Full Imitation Mounts and Nickel Slides from MacLeod Highland Supplies (i.e. #3A)(No relationship, really!) Best price point. Best resale.
Best looks (IMHO). MHS is under-rated in US.
Pipe is very playable.
Lesser woods and fitting may provide less resale.
Your wallet is the limit on ornamentation.
Many good makers out there, but be sure your not paying a lot for advertising...
Chanter Naill Plastic Solo Chanter (be sure to get Solo, not band chanter) to match what we use in the Kalamazoo Pipe Band - very easy to reed and forgiving of over-blowing. Expect to need a different chanter for each band. Most bands will provide them. Intermediate and advanced player will usually have a separate solo chanter.
Bag Zippered Bannantyne (Gortex lined leather) Bag (Medium) with water trap (included) Allows for possible future addition of Ash plugs or tone-enhancers or fishing out drone reeds.  No need for extra water trap. More experienced players may prefer the Ross bag, but it requires a lot more maintenance and may suffer from enzymatic attack below the blow stick.
Water Trap Bannantyne Water trap Very functional and requires no threading of blowstick stock.  Comes with the Bannantyne bag Non-Kinking Tube type (Custom Made and Fitted in Kalamazoo) can be added to any pipe bag and can provide support inside original Canmore bags.
Drone Reeds EZdrone Best choice across many pipes Others may work, but I can't "guarantee" it.  More advanced players will experiment with other reeds.
Chanter Reeds Shepherd They work for me. If you're part of the KPB, I'll provide a couple reeds of various strengths to get you up and playing.  Often, for convenience I'll loan a Clanrye reed for the initial beginners pipe, but the sound quality is not optimal, so it gets replaced as soon as the piper can blow some degree of tone and handle some maintenance responsibility.
Cover and Cords Black Corduroy Bag Cover w/ white trim
White Wool Drone Cords
This goes with any outfit.  Most bands will provide their own. Silk cords are beautiful and expensive. Some bags are slippery.
Blow stick Airstream blowstick (plastic) OR

Brass Lined OEM blowstick with Airstream mouthpiece

Won't split, better airflow, less negative impact on teeth. Airstream, Gibson and others make adjustable blowsticks. I use a Gibson to determine the length for each player and then cut their mouthpiece to match.    The body of an Airstream will NOT match most pipes, but can be painted to match more closely.  Brass-lined OEM blowsticks (custom modified in Kalamazoo) with rubber flapper valves are viable.  They may be too long for most people, but can be "cut down".
Case An old suitcase is a fine starter. This is cheap and functional. Other cases work well and each person will want to pick their own.
Maintenance Kit Latex Tubing, Yellow Hemp, Black Hemp, Paraffin Wax, Spare Chanter Reed, emery board, 3 drone top stoppers, 5 stock stoppers, Drone Brush, Chanter Brush, Pull through, Oil, Chanter Reed Protector Cap, "Care & Maintenance of the Great Highland Bagpipe" by Ron Bowen Can be purchased from various vendors.  Each piper should strive to maintain their own instrument.  These supplies will be required to perform routine maintenance. This may change from time to time as materials and needs evolve.
Shipping      Recently, shipping from Scotland has become VERY expensive. (about $100-110 for a single set.)
Set-up and Support As you need it for your playing level If you play in the KPB, I'll teach you how to do this for yourself and provide support along the way.  

What I can add to what you can buy:

Brass Lined Blow stick, cut to length (Custom Modified in Kalamazoo) with rubber flapper valve
Set-up for your playing level
Support as you need it
.

 For more information: contact Steve MacLeod